What can Q8 be used on?
Any exterior wood surface where it will PENETRATE.
What does EPA Registered mean?
Registered products contain a component(s) that kills rot causing organisms should they try to eat the wood fibers. i.e. Registered products are PESTICIDES. Pesticides actually PRESERVE and protect the wood against organisms like fungus and rot and wood ingesting insects like termites as well- as in the case of Q8 Log Oil.
What prep is necessary?
Remove any barrier to penetration prior to application.
How is Q8 applied?
Best: flood coat with a pump-up type sprayer. Apply to REFUSAL.
How often does Q8 need to be applied on logs and decking?
6-24 months after the initial treatment (depending upon temperature and moisture content) and then 4-8 years thereafter on siding/log wall applications. Every year or every other year on walk surfaces.
Does my decking need to weather first?
NO. Just make sure the waxy surface coating is removed prior to treatment with Q8 Log Oil.
What does end-cut mean?
ANY cut on a piece of wood that is chemically pre-treated for rot/decay is referred to as an “End-Cut” because the pressure treatment cannot reach the center of the board for 100% protection. Treated lumber always has a sticker on the end of each board indicating the type of chemical used in the factory. Any cut must have a suitable Registered Preservative applied to “heal the breach” in the lumber.
How many coats of Q8 are needed?
Apply ONE coat to the point of refusal.
How does temperature affect application?
Cold wood has “shrunken” cell pockets and warm wood has enlarged cell pockets. (Think of a frozen sponge.) If Q8 is applied to cold wood, the pockets are small but will open larger when heated and therefore accept MORE Q8 for a maximum “point of refusal” treatment.
Will Q8 ever crack or peel?
No. Q8 does not form a surface film.
We see some lower radial “spotting” on our siding this winter after our initial application last summer. It seems to have appeared after a snow. What is causing this?
Outlast Q8 Log Oil must soak into the wood cells in order to be effective. It must penetrate to the point of refusal. Do not UNDER treat because this prevents development of the water repellency. If you have prepped to remove previous coatings or mill glaze and you still can’t get absorption at the recommended spread rate, you will need to re-treat as soon as the cell pockets below the wood surface are “open” and available as reservoirs. Warm dry wood is more receptive than cool wet wood. Outlast Q8 will dissolve the spots with light brushing during retreatment.
Why should I use NBS30 additive if Outlast Q8 has a pesticide in it for termite control?
Good question! Outlast Q8 protects against attack by wood eating insects such as termites and powder post beetles. But Outlast Q8 does not repel nuisance insects like ants, wasps, carpenter bees and other NON-wood eating insects. NBS 30 effectively repels nuisance insects that want to burrow or nest -into the wood or insects that like to nest ON top of wood.
Is there a Nationwide “brick and mortar” chain store that I can purchase your products from?
Outlast Products can be special ordered for you from your local Sherwin Williams paint store. Some of them stock product also. We also have a number of distributors who will deliver directly to your home via internet, phone or websites. Check out our distributor list on this site.
Why do most stain products “peel or flake” off?
Whether “oil-based” or “water-based”, all coatings will fail without regular maintenance”. Maintenance is required to make sure the “skin” of the coating is never breached. Most of the log home stains on the market are film forming barriers that act like a rain coat to prevent moisture infiltration. Over time, the “skin” is worn away or damaged by debris allowing an opening for moisture to penetrate. Once it is breached if not immediately repaired, rain can penetrate just as it would a hole in a rain coat. Plain wood rots when it is wet.** DRY wood will not decay. Keeping the wood dry is the key with barrier method coatings, i.e. paints and stains.
Why is Q8 Log Oil different?
Q8 Log Oil is NOT a coating and it does not form a film or skin on the surface. The water repellency comes from within the available* cell pockets and is further enhanced by the PERMANENT oxine copper component which bonds to the cellulose and will not leach out. *Available cell pockets are determined by the water/moisture content of the wood. Freshly cut wood has almost 100% moisture content! Meaning that the weight of the water is equal to the weight of the cellulose. Very little if any Q8 could penetrate in this situation because the space is occupied by water. As the wood dries or seasons to ambient moisture level with its’ environment, cell pockets empty of water (evaporation) and become available for Q8 Log Oil to inhabit. When Q8 is present, it slows down rapid moisture loss that creates checking in the lumber. Subsequent periodic Q8 treatments applied to refusal fill in the empty pockets as evaporation continues. Maintenance in the later years is a matter of combating the effects of the sun if the customer wants any color other than grey. EVERYTHING fades in the sun. A fresh application of Q8 imparts more pigment for the surface appearance.
I have a question regarding Q8 Log Oil surface preparation procedures. Our 70-year-old cabin is located on an island on Lake Saganaga in the Boundary Waters. It has multiple layers of Rez and other coatings that are all peeling. We will be sanding with angle grinders (24 grit disks) to remove the old coatings and weathered wood. Our only water source is from the lake and it contains algae and other organisms. Your specifications call for applying a detergent and a water rinse. Do you see a problem with rinsing with lake water? If so, what do you recommend?
Good question - Complicated by the fact that the angle grinders could set up mill glaze which if left on will inhibit penetration of the Q8. We don’t want to kill any fish with detergents or KleenStart. Keep in mind that IF THE WOOD IS PRESSURE TREATED, the grinding residue might be harmful to some species also, i.e. the ground up REZ product as well as the micronized copper or cca from the wood itself. Caution should be exercised to vacuum (if possible) the grinding residue or sweep it up rather than just letting it float into the water.
After this, he can try thoroughly rinsing the surface with pond water. Let the wood dry and then do a “water droplet test”. If the water drop readily soaks into the wood, so will the Q8.
What are the coverage Rates for Qutlast Q8 Log Oil?
Thank you for asking us about Outlast Q8 Log Oil coverage rates.
Outlast Q8 is a penetrating EPA Registered wood preservative. Unlike a surface coating that dries to film barrier on the surface of the substrate, Q8 soaks and cures INTO the wood cell structure rather than coating the top. Typically NEW (mil glaze free) wood accepts Outlast Q8 Log Oil to the point of refusal at around 125-175 square feet per gallon depending upon the wood species. This is due to the fact that new wood can contain as much as 40%+ moisture content at the core even if it registers less than 18% with a moisture meter at the surface! When the interior water evaporates away, more cell pockets are available for Q8 to occupy. Oil is lighter than water, so Q8 settles into the cell structure above the water logged interior. This process allows interior moisture to dissipate more slowly and evenly thereby reducing the RAPID moisture loss that leads to splitting and cracking wood at the surface.
Coverage rates for OLD WEATHERED wood that is DRY, is a different situation. There is a significant amount of extra “empty room” in the interior cell pockets of old dry wood. After many years, the core has dried out to reach ambient moisture levels with the environment. Q8 Log Oil applied to the point of refusal occupies more of the interior space and therefore requires MORE PRODUCT to reach the point of refusal. Fifty square feet per gallon coverage could be possible.