What can Q8 be used on?
Any exterior wood surface where it will PENETRATE.
What does EPA Registered mean?
Registered products contain a component(s) that kills rot causing organisms should they try to eat the wood fibers. i.e. Registered products are PESTICIDES. Pesticides actually PRESERVE and protect the wood against organisms like fungus and rot and wood ingesting insects like termites as well- as in the case of Q8 Log Oil.
What prep is necessary?
Remove any barrier to penetration prior to application.
How is Q8 applied?
Best: flood coat with a pump-up type sprayer. Apply to REFUSAL.
How often does Q8 need to be applied on logs and decking?
6-24 months after the initial treatment (depending upon temperature and moisture content) and then 4-8 years thereafter on siding/log wall applications. Every year or every other year on walk surfaces.
Does my decking need to weather first?
NO. Just make sure the waxy surface coating is removed prior to treatment with Q8 Log Oil.
What does end-cut mean?
ANY cut on a piece of wood that is chemically pre-treated for rot/decay is referred to as an “End-Cut” because the pressure treatment cannot reach the center of the board for 100% protection. Treated lumber always has a sticker on the end of each board indicating the type of chemical used in the factory. Any cut must have a suitable Registered Preservative applied to “heal the breach” in the lumber.
How many coats of Q8 are needed?
Apply ONE coat to the point of refusal.
How does temperature affect application?
Cold wood has “shrunken” cell pockets and warm wood has enlarged cell pockets. (Think of a frozen sponge.) If Q8 is applied to cold wood, the pockets are small but will open larger when heated and therefore accept MORE Q8 for a maximum “point of refusal” treatment.
Will Q8 ever crack or peel?
No. Q8 does not form a surface film.
We see some lower radial “spotting” on our siding this winter after our initial application last summer. It seems to have appeared after a snow. What is causing this?
Outlast Q8 Log Oil must soak into the wood cells in order to be effective. It must penetrate to the point of refusal. Do not UNDER treat because this prevents development of the water repellency. If you have prepped to remove previous coatings or mill glaze and you still can’t get absorption at the recommended spread rate, you will need to re-treat as soon as the cell pockets below the wood surface are “open” and available as reservoirs. Warm dry wood is more receptive than cool wet wood. Outlast Q8 will dissolve the spots with light brushing during retreatment.
Why should I use NBS30 additive if Outlast Q8 has a pesticide in it for termite control?
Good question! Outlast Q8 protects against attack by wood eating insects such as termites and powder post beetles. But Outlast Q8 does not repel nuisance insects like ants, wasps, carpenter bees and other NON-wood eating insects. NBS 30 effectively repels nuisance insects that want to burrow or nest -into the wood or insects that like to nest ON top of wood.
Why would I need to add Mold-Buster to paint or stain?
Paint sold in the US is manufactured to an average standard for mold and mildew control. Gone are most of the local paint manufacturers who specifically formulated products for regional climate conditions. Especially humid areas of the country and situations of non-optimal air circulation can overpower the “one-size-fits-all” paints and stains sold in the big box stores. The addition of Mold-Buster significantly improves the mold/mildew resistance of the coating in such situations.
Is there a Nationwide “brick and mortar” chain store that I can purchase your products from?
Outlast Products can be special ordered for you from your local Sherwin Williams paint store. Some of them stock product also. We also have a number of distributors who will deliver directly to your home via internet, phone or websites. Check out our distributor list on this site.
Why do most stain products “peel or flake” off?
Whether “oil-based” or “water-based”, all coatings will fail without regular maintenance”. Maintenance is required to make sure the “skin” of the coating is never breached. Most of the log home stains on the market are film forming barriers that act like a rain coat to prevent moisture infiltration. Over time, the “skin” is worn away or damaged by debris allowing an opening for moisture to penetrate. Once it is breached if not immediately repaired, rain can penetrate just as it would a hole in a rain coat. Plain wood rots when it is wet.** DRY wood will not decay. Keeping the wood dry is the key with barrier method coatings, i.e. paints and stains.
Why is Q89 Log Oil different?
Q8 Log Oil is NOT a coating and it does not form a film or skin on the surface. The water repellency comes from within the available* cell pockets and is further enhanced by the PERMANENT oxine copper component which bonds to the cellulose and will not leach out. *Available cell pockets are determined by the water/moisture content of the wood. Freshly cut wood has almost 100% moisture content! Meaning that the weight of the water is equal to the weight of the cellulose. Very little if any Q8 could penetrate in this situation because the space is occupied by water. As the wood dries or seasons to ambient moisture level with its’ environment, cell pockets empty of water (evaporation) and become available for Q8 Log Oil to inhabit. When Q8 is present, it slows down rapid moisture loss that creates checking in the lumber. Subsequent periodic Q8 treatments applied to refusal fill in the empty pockets as evaporation continues. Maintenance in the later years is a matter of combating the effects of the sun if the customer wants any color other than grey. EVERYTHING fades in the sun. A fresh application of Q8 imparts more pigment for the surface appearance.